What a Fort!

We got up in the morning and headed to Meherangarh Fort. It is from the 15th century and was occupied until the 1940’s when then last new palace in India was built. Although called a Fort it is a castle and palace for the Maharaja. It is on top of a huge rocky hill and it is enormous. It is what you think of when you think of a desert fortress. It looks totally impregnable. We walked to the top. From the top you have vistas of the city and the city walls from all directions. No one snuck up on this place. Many of the homes in this city are painted blue (the color of Lord Krishna – the flute player). It is quite pleasing to the eye to see these blue houses.

One interesting sight at the castle was a series of handprints. Indian women at that time practiced Sati. When their husbands died they through themselves on the funeral pyre and burnt themselves to death. The practice is now illegal in India. These hand prints were of women who were going to practice a mass Sati when their solder / husbands were killed in battle.

From the Fort we drove a short distance to see the spot where the Maharajas are cremated. We then drove to the new palace where the Maharaja lives. Part of this new palace is a very plush Taj Hotel. We had lunch (it was very good) I like the richness of Rajasthan food.

We then shifted in to shopping mode. The Taj, of course, had a nice shopping area. There was also a shopping area near our hotel. From there some us tuk-tuked into the old quarter and walked around through the narrow alleys. The women here are extremely colorful in their choice of dress (except Muslim women who stick to basic black).

After spending time in the old quarter we returned to the hotel. We drank a lot of wine, by the pool, we ordered very good samosas as snacks. I then had the buffet; Cathy was full from the snacks.

We returned to our room to pack for our morning drive to Jaipur.

6 Hour Bang Lossi

6 Hour Bhang Lassi

I wanted to try Bhang Lassi, or at least the Bhang part since I arrived in India. It is legal here. So, we had all day bus ride ahead of us from Udaipur to Jodhpur. It was the perfect venue. Bhang comes wrapped in a leaf. It looks like mud or dirt. I opened a bottle of fresh water and spilled half of it out so that I had about a cup of water left. I then poured the muddy stuff into the water a shook vigorously. It looked awful, reminded me of dirty water. So I drank it all. Nothing happened. The bus rolled on towards Jodhpur.

About an hour later it hit me. I felt very mellow as if I had 2 or 3 martinis. The bus ride got more interesting! The first couple of hours as we drove towards the Rajasthan State border; the road was a treacherous - one lane, very curvy cut thru the steep mountains. The bus continually sounded its horn as it went around one blind curve after another. I don’t know why there aren’t more accidents.

We eventually passed over the mountain and hit flat land that became more and more dry and like a desert. The Bhang Lassi was in full effect! We then stopped at a Ranakpur Jain Temple with 1444 pillars. This white marble structure was built in 1439 and still is in use. Inside there are many connected large rooms with intricate carvings everywhere. It is built on many, many different levels with no railings to stop you from tumbling down. It is a magnificent structure which blew us all away. Of course I was more blown away then anyone do to my enhanced senses.

We then drove to a nearby outdoor Jain restaurant for a very good lunch. We loved the taste of everything! We then drove thru small villages and towns towards Jodhpur. The whole area is very colorful. The men wear turbans (9 meters of cloth go into a turban) and the women wear colorful saris. We saw mustard fields that reminded us of the Bollywood Movie DDLJ. We saw wild pigs in the street, a new obstructions to our travels. Cathy and I listened to Indian music on our Iphone. It was the 5th hour since I took the Bhang Lassi and I still felt it!

We then checked into our hotel the Ajit Bhawan a heritage hotel. It was the converted palace of a late brother of the Maharaja of Jodhpur. We then headed out for dinner. We took our bus towards the old city, but eventually we could go no farther. We had to get out of the bus and take Tuk-Tuks down the narrow streets. It is fabulous way to travel, you see into houses, stores, avoiding cows, people, motorcycles, and other tuk-tuks. It is like going to the fun house and playing bumper cars, but you never seem to hit anything.

We went to a converted gigantic mansion, over 225 years old. Our group were the only ones there. There must have been 20 entertainers, singers, dancers, fire-eaters, all entertaining us, as we drank in this amazing house’s courtyard. We then went on a tour of the house, escorted by the sons of the owner of the house, and then we met their father, who seemed quite pleased with his mansion.

We were led up to the roof of the mansion where there was a dinner prepared for us. While we were eating they had more dancing and entertainment. From the roof we could see the Royal Palace (we are going there for lunch tomorrow), and other city sites. Finally to top it off, they lit all kinds of loud fireworks that shot up and exploded over our heads. What a way to end a dinner, your own private – large scale fireworks. The Bhang Lassi had just about worn off and this was a fitting end to an amazing day! We took tuk-tuks and the bus back to the hotel and to sleep, awaiting a day in Jodhpur tomorrow.

Recovered from Delhi Belly

 

 

 

 

I still felt kind of punk in the morning when I woke up, but the antibiotics had kicked in. I decided to stay back as the group left the hotel in two different directions. Most went to a museum of miniature paintings. Cathy, Ferris and Courtney went shopping. Later in the morning they happened to sync up with the group on the bus and shopping continued.

When I realized that I was cured, or at least didn’t have to think of being close to a bathroom, I decided to have a massage. I had a typical Indian Ayurvedic massage. It is a VERY oily massage but soothing. They rub lots of oil into your hair and leave it there. I was now ready to meet the rest of the day. It cost 600 rupees, about $12.00.

I then took an auto rickshaw back to the hotel and picked up Barbara who had also remained behind, to drive over to the Majarana’s private car museum. He likes Rolls-Royces. Besides his regular Rolls, he has a Rolls Jeep, and Rolls Hunting Car.

We then returned to the Hotel and I caught up with Cathy and group who had just returned from shopping. We had heard from the group of an upscale shawl store that featured amazing products from Kashmir. The store sent a car and driver for us and we went there. It was amazing, the store could have been in New York or Los Angeles very chic. They then had the driver take us a to a jewelry store and back to the hotel. We had drinks and dinner at the hotel. We then packed to be ready in the morning for our trip to Jodphur.

Palaces and Delhi Belly

 

 

 

 

We drove from Amedabad to Udaipur. This was a about a 5 hour drive. The most important part of the drive is that we left the State of Gujarat and entered the State of Rajasthan. As you probably guessed you can drink in Rajasthan. Driving into Udaipur we saw our first elephant being used as a beast of burden. One more thing to avoid on the crowded streets.

Rajasthan is the State that people think of when they think of India. Palaces, red earth, it is all here. The Rajaputs, the people who lived in this area, were known as fierce warriors. The city of Udaipur has many, many palaces and several lakes. There is a famous palace in the middle of lake that has been turned into a hotel.

We are staying at a new very nice hotel, called the Trident. When we arrived in Udaipur, we went the main Palace of the Majahrana. The Palace is a huge complex which has grown as buildings were added onto it over the centuries. It looks out over the lake and the Majahrana can see many other of his palaces. This guy is loaded! At Indian Independence, in 1947, the Majahrana was able to keep his palaces his jewels and lots of other things. He in very astute and has turned many of his palaces into hotels.

At any rate we walked through the gigantic palace and saw the way he lives. He still lives in it in a newer section.

We returned to our hotel cleaned up, had drinks (yea) and headed out to another one of his palaces. This was is a guest palace on an island in the middle of the lake. We took a private launch to get there. It was a beautiful setting looking back across the lake at night at the various lit up palaces.

As the night progressed I realized that I was finally suffering from a bout of “Delhi Belly” as they so discretely describe it. I have now taken the antibiotic prescribed for it, and I expect to be ok in the morning. I have no idea where I picked up the bug. At any rate, India is worth it!

Walking and Shopping

 

 

 

 

The group split in half in the AM today. Some of us went on a walk through the old quarter. The other half (including Cathy) stayed at the hotel for a lecture on textiles. When we compared notes at noon, we both had a great time.

The old quarter is very crowded. The alleys go every which way, and if we got lost in them, it would be difficult to find our way out. The streets are jammed with women washing clothes, cows, motorbikes, strollers, hawkers, and people just hanging around their home. The ground level of the homes may have a tiny business in front like a tailor or cigarette sales. Most of the homes leave their doors open and you can look into these homes that are hundreds of years old.

There are Hindu Temples or shrines every block or so, there are Mosques all over, there are Jain Temples scattered through out. They all seem to live in harmony.

The little alleys lead to a small public square that are located through out the old quarter. On a wall at each square is a blackboard where they people who live nearby posts messages to each other. Kind of an ancient example of facebook.

Among the highlights, Sid Saeed Mosque an ancient Mosque that has carved window screens that you would swear were like stain glass, but are actually carved from stone. I have included a picture. We visited a very rich Hindu Sect, where we saw a service with all of its banging drums and bells. The drums and bells are automated no humans play them. It was fun to watch: a very Rube Goldberg machine – but boy was it loud!

We had to take our shoes off, of course, when we entered the temple. When we left the temple someone had stolen our guide’s new tennis shoes. Luckily, there was a sandal maker nearby and he was able to purchase new sandals.

We visited a Jain Temple. I know very little about this religion, except the people are such vegetarians that they sometimes where masks so they won’t inadvertently breath in an insect.

There were streets bustling with sari shops and vendors of all kinds. The people were amazing, the love to have their picture taken.

Kite flying is very popular. We came across men preparing pink kite string. The string is coated with ground up glass, and the object when you fly a kite is to rub your string against another kites string and cut it. The last kite flying wins. You can read all about in the book: The Kite Runner. It is excellent.

We went through an abandoned large house in the old quarter. It is over 20 rooms with two indoor courtyards. If someone wanted to, and had the money, they could create quite a living space.

We eventually tuk-tuked back to the hotel to meet the rest of the group. They had learned much and had bought a few pieces. We went to lunch and then went shopping.

We first went to Shrujan. This women’s clothing store, trains women in the villages to be self-sufficient by sewing. They provide to the women the education necessary to do the work. This is critical in India because so many people live in small, primitive by our standards villages. These projects greatly assist them.

We walked around the corner to another store and continued to shop! We then jumped aboard tuk-tuks for a ride back to our hotel.

After drinks in our room, with others, we had dinner in the hotel and packed for our trip tomorrow to Udaipur.

Would Gandi Approve of our Shopping?

Today we spent our time exploring Ahmedabad. We started out by going to the Calico Museum of Textiles. Ahmedabad is a typical large (4 million people) loud, bustling, congested Indian City. It also is fairly wealthy with many rich industrialists. One family has endowed many museums. The Calico Museum is not about Calico. It is however an oasis of green lawns and trees and very contemplative set in the middle of this city. You are transported to another peaceful world. They allow no pictures so you will just have to visualize the estate. The rich textile family built an extremely large mansion in the 30’s and latter turned it into a museum. They also transported the facades of several old Ahmedabad homes to the property. The museum itself is a gem. It displays many examples of textiles including clothing, temple scrolls etc. The rich are different; I think everyone on this tour could imagine themselves living on this estate.

From there we went 180 degrees in the other direction. We went to Sabarmati Ashram. This is where Mahatma Gandhi lived, upon his return from South Africa. At this Ashram he developed his non-violent philosophy, his acceptance of the Untouchable Class, and his determination to achieve independence from the British. Although from a very high class family, he lived here in a simple fashion, sleeping on the porch of his very small house. We spent a lot time in the historical museum reading about his life.

From there we went to a very small Art Book Store. It was very crowded and had an amazing selection of books on Indian Arts and Crafts.

After lunch we walked around in the old quarter of Ahmedabad. This area has gated alleys that lead off of the main streets. They are very narrow. The homes along these alleys are 600 years old, with families handing them down from generation to generation. We shopped along the way.

In the afternoon we went to Shreyas Folk Museum. This is another museum (actually two different ones at one location) donated by the same family that gave the Calico Museum. It also sits in its own large park. Everyone loved this museum. It is loaded with textiles and everyday historical articles. They had a comprehensive collection.

We returned to the hotel. I finally figured out that everyone is always walking around with a water bottle in the heat and that I could empty my water bottle and fill it with white wine. No one was the wiser and I could expand my drinking environment to more than our hotel room!

In the hotel Cama where we are staying there is a great gift shop. The owner is the 2nd generation running the shop. He has old textiles and designs new ones. We all met with him as he displayed his wares. It was educational and fun (with my trusty not so water bottle).

We had dinner at the hotel and prepared for tomorrows adventures.

Eunuchs, Bats and Wine

We started out for a long day of driving on towards the city of Ahmedabad. We drove down a typical Indian one and half lane road. We shared our road with on coming trucks, herds of goats and cows, camels, and generally congested traffic. Driving in India is like an “E” ticket at Disneyland, very exciting! Pedestrians do not have the right of way, however animals do. So even on the Indian equivalent of a fast road, sometimes traffic comes to a complete standstill as a herd of goats or cows crosses the street.

We stopped at 3 very different Hindu Temples. The first one was an active Hindu Temple, and we arrived just as various services were starting. This is the only Hindu Temple in India devoted to Eunuchs. They are thought of as special people in India. In the picture you can see them sitting and chatting. They were happy (as all Indians seem to be) to have their picture taken. The temple is named Bahucharaji.

From there we went to one of 3 Sun Temples in India. It is no longer an active Temple, but rather a historical site. The Sun Temple of Modhera was built in 1050 and it was designed so that the sun always shone through the building lighting specific holy spots. It is a testimony to their knowledge of both engineering and astronomy. The building was covered with carvings of the gods and lots of erotic images from the Kama Sutra. The Temple is quite beautiful except that when we looked up we noticed the ceiling was covered with hanging bats. We don't like bats.

We then went to the most spectacular Temple: Rani Ki-Vav, it is located in the former capital of Gujarat, Patan. The top of the Temple is flush with the ground. The entire temple is built in an excavation in the ground. You descend into it via steep stone steps. As you walk down you are surrounded with sculptured reliefs. It is quite amazing. The idea of an “upside” temple blew all of our minds. We climbed down, below the surface of the earth approximately 5 stories. The sense of being below ground and in such an elaborate religious excavation is overwhelming.

We then went to visit the very famous weaving family of Patola. They have a unique way of weaving that has been in their family for generations. They are the last family of weavers that are left using these techniques. Once again all of the residents of this very poor area came out to wave and smile at us. I am overwhelmed by the friendliness of the people.

We continued driving and eventually arrived at our hotel in Ahmedabad. We were ready for a drink. Instead we got a good taste of Indian bureaucracy. The State of Gujarat is a dry state, no bars, no alcohol in restaurants, etc. However you can purchase a license to buy liquor. So I started the process. The wine shop was in the basement of our hotel. I went to the basement to buy some wine. They gave me a short form to fill out and told me to take my passport and the form to the front desk. I didn’t have my passport with me so I went up got my passport and then went to the front desk. They took my passport, Xeroxed it and my Indian Visa, and officially stamped the form and signed it. I took the form back downstairs to the Wine Shop and they had me fill out a two page form about my trip, arrival in India etc. When I had finished filling out the forms they took it along with the other signed form and the Xerox, stapled them together, and told me to return to my hotel room they would call me. I really wanted a drink by this time. I returned to our hotel room and eventually the phone rang, they were ready. I went back down to the basement and was met by a new official who checked the forms, signed the forms, and told me the cost of the permit to drink was 70 rupees (about $1.50). I gave him the rupees, and he entered all sorts of data in an old ledger book. I then was told to go the counter where I could select either: 3 bottles of wine, 1 bottle of hard alcohol, or 10 beers. Which ever I selected, could only be drunk in our hotel room during the next 7 days. I am not allowed to buy any more booze. They signed the official permit to drink, stamped it twice and I was good to go. One small problem no one had handed me anything to drink. I looked forlornly at the wine sitting on the counter and said something to the man like “That’s my wine”. He said the man who just left the room would be returning shortly and put it in a bag for me. I waited, the man showed up, he put the wine in the bag and I returned to my room, thinking next time its Cathy’s turn to buy.

We then went out to a traditional Gujarat meal. I didn’t like it, oh well, I have lots of wine to drink!

Camel Ride!

I wasn’t able to blog yesterday; we were in the middle of nowhere, with no connectivity. We left our hotel for a long drive and wound up in Sadura. On the drive we saw lots of cows and goats and water buffalo meandering across the road. Sometimes they were ones and twos, sometimes in large herds.

We stopped in at an artist who makes great block printing textiles. It was a typical Muslim house and I was intrigued to see the women getting water from their well. The house, like most homes we visited, had no running water or cooking area.

We came across camel caravans. I was amazed. I couldn’t believe they are still used. But we saw them. Migrant workers on Camels taking their possessions with them while herding goats from one place to another.

They grow different crops in this area, Cotton, and Caster Beans were very predominant. The fields are interspersed with large industrial buildings. On the long hours of our ride, our guide explained to us the various ways that the multiple religions of India co-exist (or not). He discussed love vs. arranged marriages and the different customs of the states of India 28 very diverse states.

We finally arrived at our hotel. We have a little separate house to ourselves and it is very primitive.

We were then taken for a camel ride through the surrounding villages. It was similar to a hay ride, but with camels, not horses, pulling the wagon. Camels are very smooth walkers. They have two speeds: slow and a sort of trot. The village alleys we went through were all dirt paths. As he was pulling us the camel would take a bite out of any low hanging tree branches that looked good to him. I am glad they are vegetarians. The villages are mixed: Muslim and Hindu. There are many Mosques and Hindu Temples even in the smallest villages. None of the men seem to work very hard. There are children everywhere. Both Hindus and Muslims love to have their picture taken – especially the mothers with their young children. None of the women wear Burkas, a few cover their entire face, most just wear a scarf. They then love to be able to look at the camera and see themselves after we have taken their picture. Everyone likes being a star the world over. A very few Muslims prefer we don’t take their pictures, most have no problem being photographed.

The alleys were drove through were very narrow, and the camel cart would have to navigate through the throngs of people, cows, dogs, goats, kids, motorbikes, etc. Somehow it all works out. It is amazing to spend so much time around Muslims that are not at all westernized. They look like every picture you have ever seen, and they are smiling, waving, and totally friendly. I was wearing an Obama Tee Shirt and they responded well. They are not like the stereotype enemy they are made out to be. All of the women wear saris, very colorful for the Hindu women, black for the Muslim women. The Muslim women have tattoos.

We then camelled (if that is word) to a Gypsy encampment. I have never met real Gypsies before. They are like everyone else - trying to sell us jewelry, and other things. Lots of Gypsy children were playing and running around. I was uptight walking around among them, thinking at any moment I would be pick pocketed, but I quickly came to feel totally safe and they knew they would get our money anyway from sales. Once again we were all charmed by the goats. Damn they are cute.

In these villages the main things that they sell are bracelets and weavings.
We then were driven back through the very narrow streets to a cacophony of sound as both the Muslim call to prayer was wailing from the various Mosques loudspeakers while simultaneously the Bells and Chants from the Hindu temples reverberated down the alleys. Everyone from the village, and especially the young kids who ran alongside of us would wave and say Hi. Even the old Muslim men would respond and wave back to us. We couldn’t figure out who was having more fun, us on our camel excursion through these tiny villages, or the Indians looking at the crazy tourists pulled by camels. I think it was fun for all, Indian and tourist alike.

Although the state is a dry state they allowed us to drink the wine that we had brought with us. I will always bring a wine opener with me on future trips. It is hard to find one in a dry state! Back at the hotel they had a dinner for us, followed by demonstration of men doing local dances. The dances were performed with long sticks and had a martial arts flavor to them.

Towards the Pakistan Border

We were awakened by the call to prayer from the nearby Mosques. We left the hotel and headed out for the Rann of Kutch. Kutch is an administrative district in the Indian State of Gujarat. It has a border with Pakistan. Indian and Pakistan have fought 3 wars since Independence from the British. As you can imagine there is lots of security and military bases.

We drove through the Rann of Kutch which is a large desert into the Tribal Areas on the Pakistan Border. We visited various villages. The villages were quite small, maybe 20 houses per village. They were all of the same religion (and usually all related). The village could either be a Hindu village or a Muslim village.
In the Muslim villages we were prohibited to take pictures. The people in these villages were extremely friendly and the house we visited was a showplace (all 1 room of it).

In this area of India, we are told, there is no Hindu – Muslim problem. We saw many different types of weaving: scarves, quilts, iphone cases (yea – or least I am using it as an Iphone case what ever it was made for). They had a strong earthquake here a few years ago and it killed 30,000 people. The houses have been rebuilt. Generally they are one room, round in shape. No kitchen, they cook outside. The people are all extremely friendly. Many are refugees from the various wars who are rebuilding their lives. They are very much matriarchal societies. The women earn most of the money, and the men for the most part sit around.

The roads were so bumpy I couldn’t use my Ipod and listen to the Indian Music on it. (I call it the soundtrack of India and Cathy and I like to listen to it as we drive through the countryside.

This was a far away from the hustle and bustle of Mumbai as you can get. It was a great visit. We then drove through the desert and saw a heard of camels just lying around in the sun. Camels are still used as beasts of burden in this area.

We arrived at a resort (not the Miami beach type – the rooms were simple tents) that was in the middle of nowhere, that pilgrims use. We had an excellent vegetarian meal there.

We then had a long drive back to Kutch, drove to the night market, did some more shopping and returned to the hotel to eat, pack and prepare for tomorrows drive to Zainbad.

Hopefully we will have better internet and I can post some pictures!

Into The Desert

We flew North from Mumbai to the state of Gujarat to the city of Bhuj, the major town of Kutch. The topology is completely different from other areas. It is basically desert. It reminds me of the area around Santa Fe. It could be used as a setting for westerns.

We walked around the old part of the city. Dirt roads, lots of cows (watch where you walk). There is an old Palace of the Maharajah that was destroyed in the recent earthquake. The area we are staying in is predominately Muslim. Lots of mosques and you hear the call to prayer coming from many different directions. I have always enjoyed hearing it.

Not only does our Hotel serve only vegetarian food, but the whole city is Vegetarian. The entire State of Gujarat is also dry and there is no alcohol sold or served. We smuggled 2 bottles in our suitcase, but can only drink in our room.

We will be traveling to the Tribal Areas near the Pakistan Border and the area is prohibited except with special permission from the Police. We spend 3 hours at the police station in Bhuj getting the proper papers signed.

We then went to a very tiny village. The bus drove as far as it could down a dirt lane. Occasionally the driver’s assistant would get out of the bus with a large wooden stick, and raise the power lines overhead, so they wouldn’t touch the buss as we crept down the lane.

The bus finally stopped and walked down a narrow dirt path. Adults and little kids would come out of their house and stare at us, then say Hello and ask your name. I think that was the only English that they knew. The kids followed us down the path, until we arrived at a settlement of approximately 5 houses. The village leader has acquired textiles, dresses, etc. from the people via a kind of barter system. He has an enormous collection. They spread old blankets out on the dirt path and started showing his textiles to sell. We were surrounded by the villagers, who quietly watched as we looked at and bought things that interested us. The kids were very shy and cute. Things probably haven’t changed much in this village in the last few hundred years.

Throughout this trip I have been wearing various Obama Tee Shirts. People are very pleased. When I am asked where I am from I always say “Obama” and they invariably reply: America.

After shopping in this tiny village we returned to our hotel for a vegetarian meal, then retreated to our room for a glass of clandestine wine. I wonder if people are ever thrown in jail for drinking in their room.